Have you noticed that your low tire pressure light has been coming on more frequently, and does it seem like your tires lose air all the time? Having to constantly check your tire pressure and top up the air in your tires is annoying and a waste of your precious time. Plus, driving on tires with low tire pressure can cause problems with handling, damage your tires, and even be dangerous.

So if you want to fix this, read on to learn the answer to the question ‘Why do my tires keep losing air’, plus discover the all-important solutions!

What causes a slow leak in a tire?

Before you start panicking that your tires are going flat or you’ve got a faulty tire pressure sensor, you should be aware that there are some perfectly normal reasons why tire pressures change.

Normal air loss

Tires always lose a little air pressure, generally at about 5-10% a month (10–20kPa). This is why having a tire pressure gauge at home is important and checking your pressure regularly.

Weather changes

A tire losing air and cold weather are also closely related, as temperature fluctuation affects the air pressure. You may notice this during the change of seasons, particularly in winter. If temperatures drop by 18°F, you’ll see a 3-4% drop in tire pressure. Equally, when the weather gets much hotter, you’ll find a 3-4% increase in pressure for every 18°F increase in temperatures.

This is only a real issue when temperatures drop for long periods, as quite often, the difference between day and night temperatures is enough to cause a small fluctuation overnight. So, if your vehicle spent a night outside in the cold and you find the tires are underinflated in the morning, don’t rush to add pressure. As the day warms up, the pressure will return to normal by the afternoon.

This is because pressure air expands when heated and shrinks when cooled. The amount of air should remain the same, so if there is no other damage to your tire and temperatures are likely to revert to normal, you can keep the pressure as it is.

However, if your tire has deflated more than 25% from the recommended pressure, it can be dangerous, and your chance of getting into tire-related crash triples. This is generally the point when your tire pressure monitoring system will alert you to a problem.

Therefore, it’s crucial to carry out a regular tire pressure inspection and repair the issue. These issues are either down to the car’s wheel, tire valve, or the tire itself.

Let’s look at these issues in more detail.

Wheel or tire valve problems

Wheel damage or corrosion

Wheels, especially made of aluminum, can corrode over time, particularly if exposed to salt (hello, winter roads) or moisture. This corrosion can eat away at the wheel’s surface, leading to a poor seal with the tire bead and, you guessed it, air loss.

If you hit a pothole or other road hazard, your wheel can also lose its perfectly round shape. This can mean the tire doesn’t fit as well, and once again, you’ve got air leaking out!

Tire valve leak

The valve stem is your tire’s airlock, where the air enters and leaves. But it can grow weak, especially if damaged or worn out. A compromised valve stem can leak air out of your tire, leading to gradual pressure loss. Regular checks can help catch these leaks early, preventing bigger problems.

Valve stems can be damaged by chemical exposure, either in the garage or on the road. They also wear out over time. Usually, they should last as long as your tires, but if you notice air loss of over 1-3 psi a month, they may need replacement earlier.

Another potential cause of damage to valve stems is over-tightening them. So be careful not to force them too tightly closed.

Missing tire valve cap

This is the easiest fix of all, and if this is your problem, it can be quickly remedied by buying a new valve cap. However, don’t leave it too long to replace the cap, as it plays a crucial role in protecting the valve from dirt, moisture, and direct damage. A missing cap might seem inconsequential, but it can lead to leaks and contamination of the valve core.

Tire problems

Along with problems with the wheel and tire valve, your tire itself can be the reason you’re losing air. So what causes slow leak in tires?

Tire damage

Your tires are your car’s only contact with the road, and the road isn’t always kind. Hitting a pothole, driving over sharp objects, or simply the wear and tear of daily use can cause damage leading to air loss. Regular inspections can help spot these problems early, preventing minor issues from becoming major leaks.

The classic cause of a flat or leaking tire is a tire puncture. Whether it’s a nail, shard of glass, or any sharp object on the road, punctures are a direct hit to your tire’s air retention capabilities.

Nails can puncture the tire and cause air to leak at the rate of 2-3 psi a day. A nail may remain in the tire and cause seemingly insignificant air loss. But it still needs to be extracted. If it isn’t, the leak could get worse, and your tire may need an urgent repair to make sure you don’t get a completely flat tire.

Driving over a large pothole or a curb may flex the tire sidewalls and make the tire lose air. If there is no damage to the tire-wheel unit, you may just need to re-inflate the tire. However, check for any sidewall bulges, cuts, and punctures. These may indicate internal or external damage that could contribute to the leak.

Tire bead leak

You can also get slow leaks from issues with your tire bead. The tire bead is where your tire hugs the rim, creating an airtight seal. However, if this seal is broken or compromised, air can escape, leading to slow leaks. Corrosion on the rim, debris getting stuck between the bead and the rim, or damage to the bead itself can be the culprits behind this type of leak.

Dry rot

Tires, unfortunately, don’t get better with age. Exposure to the elements, especially the sun’s UV rays, can cause the rubber to break down and crack, a condition known as dry rot. This deterioration can lead to a slow leak, air loss, and, ultimately, tire failure. That’s why it’s so important to know the age of the tire before you buy it.

What to do when my tires lose air?

Locating the air leak

If your tire loses air slowly, there are several ways to find the leak:

• By using soapy water.
  Add any soap or 20% detergent into a spray bottle with water and spray the tire and rim edge. Cover the valve stem with the mixture first, then the inside and outside edges of the rim. You can also pour some on the tire sidewalls and tread to see if there’s any damage you might have missed. Bubbles will appear where the leak is present. However, remember that you may need to wait for about 5 minutes before you notice the place where your tire loses air slowly.
• By putting the wheel into water.
  Remove the wheel from the vehicle and put it into water. The leaky part will start to release small bubbles and show itself. The puncture or other damage may be on the other side, so if you don’t see any bubbles after 5 minutes, turn the tire over.

Usually, the soapy water method works perfectly, even for small punctures. It’s also the easiest and least time-consuming, as you don’t have to remove the tire.

Fixing tire leaks

If your tire loses air slowly, there are several things you can do:

• Repair the tire
• Repair the valve stem
• Repair and/or restore the rim

NOTE: Not all damage to the wheel and tire are reparable. Some repairs are temporary, giving you time to get to the nearest tire shop. But you should never drive with temporary or poor-quality repairs daily.

Repairing a tire

You can get your puncture fixed by a technician at a tire workshop, or you can try to fix it at home. If you want to do it yourself, use a special plug kit. This method is only suitable for punctures in the tire tread, not the sidewall. Also, it’s only a temporary fix!

Using a plug kit

A plug kit contains:

• a set of plugs
• rubber cement
• a reaming tool
• a plug tool

Before starting work on your tire, make sure you have pliers or a tool that can remove a nail or other sharp object from the tire. You may also need a car jack and a lug wrench if it’s more comfortable to repair the tire after removing the wheel. However, you can repair this while the wheel is still on your car.

To repair your punctured tire:

1. First, remove the nail or other foreign objects puncturing the tire.
2. Then use the reaming tool to clean the hole and make it fit the plug. Be careful not to make the hole too large, or you won’t be able to repair the puncture.
3. Next, insert the plug into the plug tool and cover the tip of the tool with a bit of rubber cement.
4. After that, insert the plug into the hole in the tire and pull the tool out.
5. Then cut off any of the plug that sticks out above the surface. Make sure to cut it as close to the tread as possible.
6. Finally, after the repair has dried, you can pump the tire up and drive away.

NOTE: Remember that this type of repair is a temporary fix and is suitable for tread damage only. If you try to fix the sidewall with a plug kit, the tire may blow out at any moment.

If you still decide to install a plug, we recommend driving to the tire shop ASAP after. A mechanic will inspect your tire and let you know his verdict. He’ll install a mushroom plug—a more permanent solution if possible. If not, you might need to buy a new tire. 

Suppose you keep driving with a “self-installed” plug. In that case, it can result in slow tire pressure drop, insufficient pressure for tire rolling, excessive heat generation, and, as a result, sidewall destruction. 

Repair tire valve stem

If your valve stem is damaged but your tire is still good, you can replace it. You’ll need a valve removal tool and a new valve core to do this. You may also need a car jack and a lug wrench to remove the wheel if you find it easier.

How to change a valve stem:

• Remove the valve core from the wheel by inserting the removal tool tip into the stem and rotating it counterclockwise.
• Clean the stem before installing a new core if you see signs of corrosion.
• Screw a new core in place.
• Reinflate your tire.

NOTE: Wear protective glasses, as the old core or debris from the stem may fly out and hit you.

Repairing and/or restoring the rim

If you have a bent or corroded rim, you have a couple of options. If the wheel rim is bent, it’s best to go to a mechanic, as they can offer hydraulic assistance. This is one of the newest and most efficient ways to straighten a wheel and will give you the best long-term results.

NOTE: Never hammer your aluminum alloy wheels, as this can damage them beyond repair. Aluminum is quite brittle, so more gentle methods should be used to fix aluminum alloy rims.

Rim maintenance

While you shouldn’t try and repair a damaged rim yourself, you can clean and maintain them. Removing wheel corrosion is a good idea, as this is one of the reasons why a tire loses air slowly. You’ll need sanding tools, metallic aluminum polish, and wax (optional) to do this.

To clean your rims:

• First, remove the wheel from your car and remove the tire.
• Clean the wheel and degrease it.
• Then remove all the paint and previous finishes.
• Sand all its parts thoroughly, including the space between the spokes and inside the lug-nut holes.
• Use a low-speed sander to clean the rim’s center, and polish it all until it looks new.
• Finally, let it dry and apply wax if you want a waxed finish.

NOTE: This is only one of the methods for cleaning corrosion from your wheel. The method you use may vary depending on your wheel type and manufacturer’s specifications. You should also wear protective glasses and gloves while cleaning your rims.

Maintaining your vehicle’s air pressure

It’s essential to keep an eye on your tire’s air system and to carry out a tire pressure check regularly.

• Check regularly
  Check your car’s tire pressure once a week to make sure you’re quickly aware if any of your tires are losing more air than the others.
• Check when cold
  Make sure you check your tires while they are cold. You don’t need to wait too long for them to cool down – 2 hours should be fine. Also, ensure the car has been in the shade before checking the pressure. If you’ve been driving for over 15 minutes or the car has been in the sun, remove 2 psi to see the real inflation rate.
• Use a calibrated pressure gauge.
  Not all tire pressure gauges are as accurate. Check your local gas station to see if they regularly calibrate their pressure gauges. You need an accurate gauge because every psi lost makes a difference when a tire loses air slowly. Even a new gauge may show about +/- 3 psi, which can make a difference for light passenger cars. Also, choose the most appropriate tire gauge type for you: stick, digital, or dial. You can see their benefits and drawbacks by reading a buying guide.

Finding your recommended air pressure information

To find the recommended tire pressure for your car, check your vehicle owner’s manual or look for the information sign on the door frame. This will give you figures for maximum load/inflation and the recommended amounts.

It’s important that your tire load index is the same or more than the index you see on the sign. The information on the load index can be found on the tire’s sidewall as part of its code.

Tire rotation and balance

Another important factor in keeping your tire’s air pressure healthy is tire rotation and balancing. If you carry out regular tire rotation and balancing, this will ensure your tires wear evenly, which can prevent leaks caused by uneven stress and wear on the tires.

Rotate your tires according to your vehicle manufacturer’s recommendations, typically every 5,000 to 7,500 miles. Balancing should be done simultaneously to ensure even weight distribution across all tires.

Inspecting tires for damage and wear

The final step in ensuring you have healthy tires is regular visual inspections. They can catch issues before they lead to air loss. Look for signs of wear, damage, or foreign objects lodged in the tread. Check for cracks, cuts, bulges, or other signs of distress on the tire sidewalls. Addressing these issues early can prevent leaks and other tire-related problems.

Why tire pressure is important

It’s important to keep your tires at the correct pressure for several reasons.

• Safety: Unfortunately, a lot of people don’t regularly check their tires. This can lead to accidents as your car will be less stable and handling will be affected. Additionally, about 75% of roadside flat tires could be prevented by checking the pressure and repairing problems when a tire loses air slowly.
• Load-carrying capacity: Did you know that you need a different tire pressure if you have a full car? Your car can only carry the specified maximum loads if the tires have enough air in them.
• Tire lifespan: Tires are expensive, and maintaining the correct tire pressure ensures you get a long life out of your tires. When they are over- or under-inflated, your tires start to wear irregularly, so they need to be replaced sooner.
• Fuel consumption: Gas is expensive, and having the wrong tire pressure can cost you. Did you know that your fuel consumption will go up by 2-5% when your tire pressure drops by 50kPa (0.5kgf/cm2) below the appropriate level (figures from The Energy Conservation Center, Japan)? So checking your tire pressures once a month can save you money.

So, having the wrong pressure can cause many problems, increasing your risk of flats and blowouts and costing you more money for tires and gas. The average psi standard for a light passenger car is 35, and tires with this pressure become dangerous at 28 psi. So, you can see that even 5-7 psi makes a difference. So keep an eye on your tire pressures regularly!

Frequently asked questions

Why does my tire keep losing air but no hole?

It’s frustrating when your tire keeps losing air, but there’s no visible puncture. One common reason could be a leaking valve stem or a damaged valve core. Over time, these components can deteriorate or become worn out, causing slow air leaks. Another possibility is a bead leak, where the tire doesn’t properly seal against the rim. This can happen due to corrosion, debris, or improper installation. Another possibility is that temperature changes can affect tire pressure, leading to seemingly mysterious air loss.

To pinpoint the issue, have a professional inspect your tire and valve components thoroughly. Regular maintenance checks and keeping an eye on your tire pressure can help catch and address these problems early, ensuring a safer and smoother ride.

How do you fix a tire that keeps losing air?

If your tire keeps losing air, the first step is to identify the source of the problem. Start by visually inspecting the tire for any obvious punctures or damage, which can hopefully be repaired. If none are found, check for faulty valve stems, missing valve caps, and the bead seal against the rim, and ensure it’s mounted properly. Sometimes a simple tightening of the valve stem or cleaning the bead area can solve the issue.

If the problem persists, visiting a trusted mechanic or tire professional who can thoroughly inspect your tire and recommend the appropriate repair is best. Remember, staying on top of tire maintenance and regularly checking tire pressure can help prevent issues before they become a bigger problem down the road.

Why do my tires lose air so quickly?

Tires losing air too quickly can be a headache, but there are several common reasons behind it. One possibility is simply wear and tear over time. As tires age, they become more susceptible to leaks and air loss. Another common reason is punctures from things like nails or broken glass, which can create slow leaks. Sometimes, an old or faulty valve stem can lead to air loss.

A less dramatic reason might be a missing valve cap or even changes in temperature. Rapidly dropping or rising temperatures can cause changes in tire pressure, which makes it seem like your tires are losing air rapidly. Whatever the cause, it’s a good idea to get your tires checked by a professional to keep driving safely.

The post Pressure Check: Why Do My Tires Keep Losing Air? appeared first on Tire Reviews, Buying Guide & Interesting Facts - Utires.com.

When buying new tires, there are many things to consider, but quality is often number one. For many people, the quality of American-made tires is important.

If you want to buy tires made in the USA, most global tire makers have manufacturing facilities in America. But if you are looking for American companies, there are only two genuine US brands: Goodyear and Cooper. Also, many major foreign tire companies have plants in the US, including Michelin, Pirelli, Continental, Bridgestone, and Yokohama. Read on to find out how to check whether your tires were made in an American manufacturing plant.

How to identify tire brands made in the USA

When working out where a tire was made, there’s one place to look – the sidewall. Here you’ll find the DOT code, which tells you everything you need to know about the tire! Including where it was made.

Tires have DOT codes that tell you many things, from the type of tire to when it was made. They also include a plant code which tells you exactly where they were made.

You will see the Tire Identification Number (TIN) after the letters “DOT.” The first pair of letters and/or numbers in DOT codes are the plant codes. You can then check the code with the help of this list.

You’ll also find that some tires have “Made in USA” (or another country) molded onto their sidewall.

NOTE: You’ll find that plant codes don’t use the following letters: G, I, O, Q, S, and Z because they look very much like the numbers 0, 1, 5, and 2. The TIN is usually in compact bold letters/numbers, so authorities removed these letters to avoid confusion.

NOTE: According to the US Government Publishing Office, new three-character plant codes will become mandatory from April 13, 2025. Until then, manufacturers can use both two- and three-character codes.

Tires made in the USA: All-American tire brands

The tire industry, like many others, changes a lot, so companies that were founded in the USA may not be American-owned now. This means that there are very few all-American brands anymore.

For example, BFGoodrich, originally an American company, was bought by the French manufacturer Michelin, and Firestone is now part of the Japanese brand Bridgestone. Although such brands can still be called American, they belong to foreign companies.

Goodyear Tire & Rubber Company

Goodyear Tire & Rubber Company is an American company that was founded by Frank Springfield in 1898. The company specializes in passenger, commercial, light truck, SUV, racing, and other types of tires made in both the USA and overseas. The company was named after Charles Goodyear – the inventor of vulcanized rubber, a revolutionary tire-making technology.

Goodyear runs 48 facilities in 21 countries worldwide, including 17 USA-based manufacturing facilities. The company also owns about 1,100 tire and auto service spots, in addition to tire retreading centers and plants. Goodyear earned the title of the world’s largest tire company twice – in 1916 and 1999. According to its official website, it brings in over $15 billion in sales annually. This is not counting used Goodyear tires.

Goodyear USA Tire Plant Codes

• M6 – Lawton, Oklahoma
• MB – Akron, Ohio
• MC – Danville, Virginia
• MD – Gadsden, Alabama
• MJ – Topeka, Kansas
• MK – Union City, Tennessee
• MM, PJ – Fayetteville, North Carolina
• MN – Freeport, Illinois
• MP, PL – Tyler, Texas

Goodyear Subsidiaries

The main sub-brands of the Goodyear are:

• The Kelly Springfield Tire Company – American-made tires
• Dunlop Tyres – tires for North America, Australia, New Zealand, and Europe
• Douglas Tires – tires for Walmart stores in the USA
• Debica – tires for Poland
• Fulda – tires for Germany
• Sava – tires for Slovenia

Cooper Tire & Rubber Company

Cooper Tire and Rubber Company started in 1914 in Akron, Ohio. The company was formed by a merger between the M and M Manufacturing Company and The Giant Tire & Rubber Company. The company got its current name in 1946, but as of 2021, it was purchased by Goodyear, making it a subsidiary of the tire giant.

Cooper specializes in automobile, light and medium truck, motorcycle, and racing tires. They have over 60 facilities worldwide. They have plants and technical centers on three continents, with their main centers in Findlay (Ohio, for their American-made tires), Melksham (England), and Kunshan (China).

Cooper USA Tire Plant Codes

• 3D – Albany, Georgia
• U9 – Tupelo, Mississippi
• UP – Findlay, Ohio
• UT – Texarkana, Arkansas

Cooper Subsidiaries

The company’s sub-brands include:

• Dick Cepek – off-road tires for trucks, SUVs, 4x4s, etc
• Mastercraft Tires – all types of tires from passenger to light truck
• Mentor Tires – all-season, winter, and summer tires for passenger vehicles
• Mickey Thompson tires – racing and high-performance tires for street/off-road use
• Roadmaster Tires – commercial tires
• Starfire Tires – budget-oriented quality tires
• Avon Tyres – all types of tires (for Europe)
• Dean – commercial truck tires (Asia)

Top-5 foreign companies with USA manufacturing plant

While these companies might not be American-owned, they have plants in the USA, providing American jobs and American quality.

The largest foreign tire manufacturers offering American-made tires are:

• Michelin
• Pirelli
• Continental
• Bridgestone
• Yokohama

Michelin

Michelin (Michelin North America in USA) is a French tire manufacturer that started its USA activity in 1950. They make tires for passenger vehicles, motorcycles, bicycles, heavy-duty trucks, farm equipment, and planes. The company has facilities in the following states:

• Alabama
• Indiana
• North Carolina
• Ohio
• Oklahoma
• South Carolina

The tire giant owns 67 plants in 16 countries, including 19 facilities in 16 North American locations.

Michelin also owns the following brands:

• BFGoodrich
• Kleber
• Kormoran
• Riken
• Tigar
• Uniroyal

Michelin USA Plant Codes

To find Michelin tires made in the USA, search for these plant codes:

• 4M, M3 – Greenville, South Carolina
• B6 – Spartanburg, South Carolina
• B7 – Dothan, Alabama
• B9 – Lexington, South Carolina

To find plant codes of Michelin’s subsidiaries, you can use this list.

Pirelli

The Italian-founded tire manufacturer, Pirelli, is now a subsidiary of ChemChina – a Chinese enterprise. They manufacture passenger, used SUV tires, light-truck, classic car, prestige car, and racing tires. The New York Stock Exchange first listed Pirelli in 1929 making it the first Italian commercial company in the USA. More intense activity in America started when Pirelli bought Armstrong Tire in 1988.

Overall, Pirelli owns 19 plants in 13 countries and a network of about 10,000 distribution centers in 160 countries. At the moment, used Pirelli tires are an excellent choice for cars.

Pirelli USA Plant Codes

To find tires made in the USA by Pirelli and Armstrong Tire Corporation, look out for the following plant codes:

• CH – Hanford, California
• CK – Madison, Tennessee
• JR – Rome, Georgia

Continental

Continental AG is a Germany-based tire and auto parts manufacturer, making tires for automobiles (passenger, truck, commercial, etc.), motorbikes, and bicycles. Its USA business expansion started when Continental bought General Tire and Rubber Company in 1987.

They manufacture tires in the following states:

• Georgia
• Illinois
• Kentucky
• Michigan
• North Carolina
• Ohio
• South Carolina
• Texas

Continental USA Plant Codes

To identify tires made in the USA by Continental and General Tire, search for these factories:

• 6B, A3 – Vernon, Illinois
• A9 – Bryan, Ohio
• AC – Charlotte, North Carolina
• AD – Mayfield, Kentucky
• VY – South Sumter, South Carolina

Bridgestone

Bridgestone Corporation is a major Japanese tire manufacturer. The company makes passenger, off-road, commercial, truck, motorbike, bicycle, and other types of tires. Their presence in the USA was established in 1967 when the Bridgestone Tire Company of America was started, allowing them to track and improve sales in America.

In the early 1980s, the corporation purchased its first North American factory, the Firestone plant in Tennessee. Later, in 1988, they bought the whole company, increasing their manufacturing facilities in the USA dramatically.

Bridgestone USA Plant Codes

You’ll find USA-made Bridgestone and Firestone tires made at the following plants:

• 0B, W2, Y2 – Wilson, North Carolina
• 1C, HY – Oklahoma City, Oklahoma
• 2C, 4D, 5D – Morrison, Tennessee
• 2M, 3M – Bloomington, Illinois
• 7X, 8X, 9X – Graniteville, South Carolina
• 8B, VE, YE, YU – Des Moines, Iowa
• D2, E3, W1, Y7 – Lavergne, Tennessee
• YD – Decatur, Illinois

Yokohama

Yokohama Rubber Company is a Japan-based tire manufacturer. They produce passenger, light-truck, high-performance, commercial, and off-road tires. The company got its current name during its USA business expansion in 1969.

Yokohama US Plant Codes

When searching for tires made in the USA at the Yokohama plant, look for this code:

• CC – Salem, Virginia

Differences between American-made and foreign-made tires

Most international tire brands will have consistent manufacturing processes, meaning there is usually no difference between domestic and foreign facilities of a single brand. Since tire brands control their production in all countries, the results are the same. Major companies will use the same materials, manufacturing technology, and equipment in all their facilities. Specialists conduct the same tests to the same standards.

However, every company has its own techniques for achieving certain tire features. So, if you compare American-made tires from different manufacturers, you will definitely find differences.

Frequently asked questions

What brand of tires are made in USA?

If you’re on the hunt for tires proudly made in the USA, you’re in luck. Several brands boast manufacturing plants here, including American brands Goodyear and Cooper Tires. As well as American-owned companies, many international companies make their tires in the USA. These include Michelin, Pirelli, and Bridgestone. To check where your tires were made, check the plant code on the sidewall.

Are all Cooper tires made in USA?

No, not all Cooper Tires are made in the USA, but the company has a strong reputation for quality, and a good portion of its tires are manufactured in the USA. They have plants in Georgia, Ohio, Mississippi, and Arkansas. However, it’s important to note that not all Cooper tires are made in the USA. Like many major companies, Cooper has diversified its manufacturing bases and now produces tires in other countries. So, while you can find many Cooper tires that are proudly American-made, the brand does produce some tires outside the United States. You can check the DOT code on a tire’s sidewall to ensure you’re getting American tires.

Are Goodyear tires still made in the USA?

Yes, Goodyear tires are indeed still made in the USA! Goodyear, one of the oldest and most renowned tire brands globally, continues to manufacture many of its high-quality tires on American soil. With plants in nine states, including Alabama, North Carolina, and Ohio, Goodyear is committed to maintaining a significant manufacturing presence in the U.S. However, they do also make tires overseas, so it’s a good idea to check the plant code on the sidewall to make sure you’re getting the best tires made in USA.

Is Bridgestone made in USA?

Yes, many Bridgestone tires are made in the USA. Bridgestone, a global leader in the tire industry, has eight manufacturing facilities across the country. While it’s a Japanese headquartered company, Bridgestone has made a significant investment in American manufacturing to serve the U.S. market effectively.

What light truck tires are made in the USA?

Many light truck tires are made in the USA. You have some solid options that combine homegrown manufacturing with top-notch performance. Brands like Goodyear, Michelin, and Cooper Tire take the lead in producing high-quality light truck tires right here in the United States. 

The post Tires Made in USA: American and Foreign Brands appeared first on Tire Reviews, Buying Guide & Interesting Facts - Utires.com.

When it comes to the safety and efficiency of your vehicle, few things are as important as your tires. And your tire treads are what keep them gripping the road. So if you’re wondering ‘what is tire tread depth? the answer is it ensures you and your loved ones remain safe on the road while getting the most out of your vehicle. In this comprehensive guide, we’ll dive deep into the world of treads, including how to check tire tread depth, and how deep your tread should be.

Tire tread basics

The basic description of tread depths is the vertical measurement between the top of the tire’s tread rubber down to the bottom of the tire’s deepest grooves. And these grooves are important for gripping the road, channeling away water, and helping your car handle safely.

So the measurement of your tire’s tread depth is crucial for a handful of reasons, not least of which is your safety. Tread depth affects how your car brakes, how it handles wet roads, and how likely you are to hydroplane — where your vehicle loses grip and slides uncontrollably on a wet surface.

Unfortunately, as tires wear out and tread depth decreases, so does this grip, leading to longer stopping distances, reduced cornering ability, and an increased risk of skidding on wet roads.

Tread-depth basic numbers

So when you’re looking at the depth of your treads, they are likely to range between 11/32” or 10/32″ and 2/32”. At one end of that spectrum, you have brand-new tires and at the other, you have tires that should be replaced immediately. But if you’re wondering ‘what’s a good tire tread depth’ then anything over 4/32″ usually counts as good. We’ll look at these numbers in more depth later on, but this will give you a good idea of the range of standard depths.

Ways to check your tire tread

Knowing the importance of tread depth is one thing; measuring it is another. Thankfully, you don’t need to be a mechanic to check the health of your tires. There are several methods, from using a specialized tread depth gauge to the good old penny test.

Penny test

This is the most well-known way to measure a tire’s tread. All you need is a penny. Insert the penny into a tire groove with Lincoln’s head facing down. If any part of Abraham Lincoln’s head is hidden by the tread, the depth is more than 2/32″ and your tire is still road-legal. If Lincoln’s entire head is visible, you should replace your tire immediately.

Quarter test

While the penny test is the most well-known method, the quarter test is another reliable way to check your tread depth. Insert a quarter into a tire groove with Washington’s head going in first. If the top of his head is covered by the tread, you have more than 4/32″ of tread depth remaining. This method is particularly useful for checking whether your tires are safe for wet or icy conditions.

Tread depth gauge

A tire tread depth gauge is a simple tool that can give you a precise measurement of your tire’s tread depth in 32nds of an inch or millimeters. To use it, simply insert the gauge’s pin into one of the tire’s grooves and press the shoulders of the gauge flat against the tread. The reading will tell you exactly how much tread depth you have left. You can buy a tire tread depth gauge for about $5 in most auto shops.

Treadwear indicator bars

Most tires have treadwear bars (usually 6 of them) throughout the grooves. These indicate the minimum legal depth of 2/32”. There are also tire models that have several grades of bars, usually at 8/32”, 6/32”, 4/32”, and 2/32”. When a bar becomes visible, the tire is reaching a certain tread depth.

Checking treadwear is one of the first things to look for when buying used tires and it’s important to consider where to measure tire tread depth. Remember to measure tread depth on all tires, and also in different grooves. There may be some uneven treadwear, so one groove may have enough tread to drive safely, while another may be worn out.

What do tires’ tread depths mean

Whether you’re maintaining your current tires or buying a set of used tires it’s important to understand what different levels of tread wear mean:

• 10/32″ or 11/32″ is the standard original tread depth for new tires.
• 6/32” and up is sufficient and the minimum you should look for with used treads if you’re buying used tires.
• 5/32” is still sufficient in most cases, but tires may start to lose traction on wet roads.
• 4-3/32” is the level at which you should think about buying some new tires.
• 2/32” is the average legal minimum for tread depth; at this level, your tires are considered bald and unsafe.

It’s also important to remember that winter tires start to lose traction on icy and snowy surfaces at 6/32”. There may still be some traction until the tires wear down to 4/32”, but at that point, it’s vital to change your tires.

How UTQG can help you estimate used tires’ tread life

If you are buying used tires the Uniform Tire Quality Grading (UTQG) can be a helpful tool when looking at tread life. The UTQG tests are government-mandated and look at various aspects of tires’ performance including tread wear, temperature resistance, and traction.

The UTQG treadwear index is a 3-digit number, which compares a tire to the reference standard. The reference standard is 100, so if you buy a tire with a rating of 400 it should last four times longer than the reference standard.

For comparison racing tires are generally below 100 and a tire with a grade of 80 will wear 20% faster than the reference standard. Tires with 400-600 grades and higher are considered long-lasting.

If the used tires you are going to buy are of the same brand as your current set, a comparison is possible. You can also clearly see that a tire with a 600 grade will last longer than one with a 200 grade. The grade will also be helpful if you also know the treadwear warranty of the particular pre-mounted tire.

NOTE:  The UTQG ratings are required for all tires except winter, light-truck, spare, and trailer tires, plus those with 12” and less in diameter.

How to extend tread life

Tires are expensive and making sure their treads last a long time makes good economic sense. To help your tires last longer avoid sharp maneuvers and driving at high speeds, especially when your vehicle is heavily loaded. Tires work harder in these instances, so they wear out faster.

If possible, avoid these driving habits to prolong your tires’ tread life:

• Cornering
  A high-wheel cut, especially performed at high speeds, wears treads faster. Even if you are turning into a parking space, it’s better to be gentle on turns.
• High speeds on elevations
  When driving you’ll encounter different elevations, but if you handle them at the same highway speed, more tread will wear off. Carrying heavy loads at high speeds when driving on elevations can make the situation even worse.
• Hard start and braking
  Accelerating and braking gradually will reduce the wear and tear on your treads. Also, if there is no urgent need, try not to break hard, or your tread life will decrease.
• Not avoiding bumps
  Bad road surfaces will make your tread wear faster, they can damage your tires, causing bulges and cracks.

Wise control over your driving style can save twice as much tread as a rough driver.

Risks of reduced tire treads

If your tires have 2/32″ then they are officially bald. Even before this their performance can be reduced, which is why many experts recommend replacing your tires when they drop to 4/32″. The reasons for this include:

• Less hydroplaning resistance
  Tires are designed with ribs and grooves to clear water from wet surfaces, to keep traction. The more the used tires’ tread wears, the shallower its grooves get, and the less water is cleared. So tires begin to lose traction and the possibility of steering loss and hydroplaning increases. You may even experience this when the tread depth is 5-4/32”.
• Snow and ice traction loss
  Most all-season and winter tires are manufactured with smaller grooves or “sipes” helping them to grip winter roads. Sipes are designed to expand, providing strong traction between the road and the vehicle. As they wear out they lose their ability to hold the tire to the pavement in snowy and icy conditions. Sipes are usually shallower than the main grooves, so used winter tires tread may lose their performance at mid-wear (5-6/32”).
• Air pressure loss
  All tires lose air gradually, which is why you should check your tire pressure regularly. However, worn-out used tires’ treads are more likely to get damaged or punctured, which can lead to excess air loss, under-inflation, and eventually a flat tire. Under-inflation can cause uneven tread wear and reduce gas mileage. Flat tires can be dangerous causing accidents as well as impaired handling.

What to look for when buying used tires

Used tires have many advantages, but it’s important to choose wisely when buying them. Remember that 5/32” is half of the tread for many tires, but not half of the tread life. And you should always change your tire before it reaches 2/32”. So all of a sudden, the half tread-life of a 10/32″ tire jumps to 6/32”. It’s also important to remember that tires designed for use in very wet or cold conditions may need to be replaced when they have a much deeper tread (4/32″ – 6/32″).

However there are many used tires available with well over 6/32″ of tread, and you can also find nearly-new tires with up to 10/32″, at a discounted price.

Frequently asked questions

What is good tire tread depth?

Many experts say that at least 4/32″ is a good depth for your treads. However, for better traction, especially in wet or snowy conditions, it’s recommended to have even more tread depth, ideally around 6/32″ or more. Maintaining good tread depth is essential if you want to drive safely and get the best performance out of your tires. So keep an eye on your tire health and replace them when necessary to ensure better grip, handling, and safety on the road.

What is minimum tire tread depth?

The bare minimum tread depth is 2/32″ and with this low tread depth you should definitely change your tires. Above 2/32″ might be considered okay, but it’s better to aim for at least 4/32″ for adequate traction and performance, and even more than that in wet or slippery conditions. Keeping your tires at an okay tread depth is important for handling, grip, and road safety, so it’s wise to monitor and replace tires as needed.

Should I replace tires at 5 32?

Depending on the type of tires you have and road conditions you drive in you might want to replace your tires at 5/32″. For winter tires, or if you drive in wet conditions this could be a good point to consider replacing your tires. For standard tires, it’s generally recommended to consider replacing them when they reach around 4/32″.

As tread depth wears down, your tires become less effective at gripping the road, especially in wet or slippery conditions, increasing the risk of accidents. Regularly monitoring your treads depth and considering factors like your driving habits and local weather conditions can help you make an informed decision about when to replace your tires.

How do I know my tire tread depth?

You can check your tire tread depth with a specialist gauge, using the treadwear indicator bars on your tires, or even with a penny or quarter. You can find a gauge at most auto parts stores for a few bucks. Alternatively, you can stick a penny or quarter into the tread grooves. With the penny tire test, if you can see all of Lincoln’s head you have less than 2/32″ and you should replace your tires right away. With a quarter, if you see all of Washington’s head you have 4/32″ or less and you might want to think about replacing your tires. Finally, you can look at the built-in wear bars to see how much tread you have left.

The post What is Tire Tread Depth? Everything You Need to Know appeared first on Tire Reviews, Buying Guide & Interesting Facts - Utires.com.

Tinting Chicago Palatine IL services

• Car window tinting
• Car wrapping
• Car paint protection (PPF)
• Home window tinting
• Commercial window tinting
• Commercial graphics

In case you want to combine car window tinting, mechanical services, or buying quality tires, visit one of our two other locations, at 3621 N Harlem Ave or 2720 unit B, W Grand Ave, or give a call to our 24/7 customer support center at 773-714-8100.

Facility description 

Tinting Chicago is constantly growing. High demand from the customers in Palatine, Buffalo Grove, Des Plaines, Mt Prospect inspired us to open a new location. Now you don’t need to travel to the other area in Chicago to get your car tint installed! 

• Spacious tinting shop fitting 3 vehicles at once
• 10 parking spots for the customers
• The waiting area with Wi-Fi, coffee, water
• Samples of all vinyl films
• 3M and XPel certified

Staff

Location manager — Nazar Demianchuk, supervisor — Alex Belov, certified installers — Vasiliy Demianchuk and Dzmitry Bulauchyk. 

Working hours

Monday-Friday: 8 a.m. to 6 p.m. 

Saturday: 8 a.m. to 3 p.m.

Contacts

Tel.: 773-714-8100

URL: https://www.tintingchicago.com/1402-n-rand-rd-palatine/

Email: contact@tintingchicago.com

Address: 1402 N Rand Rd, Palatine, IL 60074

The post Become one of the first 100 customers and get a 20% discount on any Tinting Chicago Palatine Illinois services! appeared first on Tire Reviews, Buying Guide & Interesting Facts - Utires.com.

Study Reveals Where Drivers Are Most Reliant on Their GPS

We surveyed Americans in the 20 cities with the most cars per capita to determine how much they rely on their GPS and their usage habits.

When you get in your car, what’s the first thing you do? Many people map their route. Whether they’re trying to avoid traffic or don’t know the way, GPS is an invaluable tool to saving time and energy.

Which cities most necessitate the use of GPS while traveling? And how are people using GPS services? In this article, we surveyed over 1,200 residents from the top 20 cities in the United States that feature the most cars per person to determine how much they rely on their GPS and how they use it.

Key Findings

• Drivers in Bakersfield, Raleigh, and Nashville are most dependent on their GPS when driving.
• Of those who have tried to beat their estimated arrival time, 2 in 5 have driven dangerously to do so.
• 1 in 5 have never used a paper map for directions, and 17% wouldn’t be able to find their way with one.

Where Americans Are Most Dependent on Their GPS?

The majority of our respondents need a GPS to get around. In fact, 93% said they were dependent on their GPS and 1 in 5 use it every day. This made sense since 83% of respondents said they would get lost without their GPS.

Of the top 20 cities with the most cars per person, the following five depended on GPS the most.

1. Bakersfield, California

Bakersfield boasts a potential driving population of over 280,000. With an average of 232,168 vehicles on the road, that’s over 80% of the driving population with a car. Even more remarkable, 55.71% of them are incredibly dependent on their GPS for their travel needs. In fact, 40.58% said they are extremely likely to get lost without their GPS.

Over half of Bakersfield respondents can’t go longer than a week without using their GPS. Not that it matters too much—over half admitted to getting lost multiple times a month even while using the GPS.

2. Raleigh, North Carolina

More populous than Bakersfield, Raleigh shows much of the same dependency on GPS. Just less than 325,000 vehicles are on the road, accounting for 84% of the driving population. With 85% of the workforce commuting four hours or more each week, though, the routes start to add up.

To manage that driving, 54.32% of respondents from Raleigh report that they are completely dependent on their GPS, and half can’t go longer than a week without it. Still, more than 1 in 5 (22.5%) will definitely get lost without it, and nearly 1 in 3 still get lost a few times a month even when using it.

3. Nashville, Tennessee

Nashville, TN boasts a ratio of vehicles per driving-age person of 0.87. With an estimated 473,045 vehicles on the road, Nashville’s roads are full of drivers. Like other cities, over half of the drivers depend on their GPS for all travel, and nearly 23% will get lost without using it.

Over half of drivers (52% to be exact) use their GPS at least once a week. And, like drivers of Raleigh, almost a third of drivers will still get lost a few times a month, GPS or not.

4. Denver, Colorado

Denver is a city of over 600,000 eligible drivers and 505,632 vehicles on the road. For their normal driving needs, 48.3% of eligible Denver drivers are extremely dependent on their GPS and a quarter of drivers will get lost without using one.

Like other cities, plenty of people in Denver (43%) use their GPS at least once a week. However, only 24% reported getting lost multiple times a month. Still, with various seasons calling for different seasonal tires and driving styles, having a GPS handy is a sound decision in the mountains.

5. Fort Worth, Texas

Coming in last on the list is Fort Worth. The city has an estimated 576,827 vehicles on the road, and of drivers, 47.95% are extremely dependent on their GPS. It may seem like a lot, but it’s actually one of the two cities in the top five where less than half of drivers are dependent on GPS (along with Denver). Like Denver drivers before them, more than 2 in 5 Fort Worth drivers can’t make it a week without using their GPS.

How Americans Use Their GPS

Today, the chances of seeing a paper map are slim. One in 5 people said they’ve never used a paper map for navigating. Plus, they wouldn’t be able to use a map to reach their destination if they had to.

With GPS usage so prevalent in drivers across the country, we wanted to know exactly how they used such systems. On average, just over 60% of American drivers use a GPS service at least once a week. While there are several GPS options to use, Google Maps is the clear map leader. About 63% of respondents prefer Google’s platform to others. Apple Maps, the closest competitor, is used by only 14% of respondents.

Regardless of the provider, most people are trying to outsmart their GPS service as they drive. Over 70% reported that they try to beat their estimated arrival times. However, only 43% are routinely successful at beating the computer. Even then, 66% of drivers are only saving 30 minutes or less.

As drivers in most areas can attest, using a GPS doesn’t lead to greater safety. In fact, 2 in 5 respondents admitted to reckless driving to beat their GPS. Men are the more likely culprit, with 51% of male respondents (versus 37% of female respondents) owning up to their poor driving choices.

The Biggest Problems With GPS

Almost half of the country is dependent on GPS. Many can’t go a week without using it to get to a destination. However, that doesn’t mean drivers always love the tech. In fact, most respondents still admit to getting frustrated with GPS technology.

About 57% of respondents claimed that lost signals are the most annoying aspects of GPS. Unclear directions and directions being read too fast were the next most common, claimed by 39% each. Vague directions are a common occurrence. Approximately 70% of drivers have gotten lost even with a GPS because of unclear or confusing directions. What’s more, this happens multiple times a month for 40% of drivers!

The biggest problem with this fact isn’t the inconvenience of getting lost. Instead, it is the increased distracted and dangerous driving that arises from confusing GPS directions. Even without unclear directions, over half of the drivers say they continue to use their GPS even if it distracts them. Many respondents even claimed that GPS is more distracting than traffic or music.

Yet 44% of respondents admit to programming the GPS as they’re driving. And 2 in 5 respondents have been in an accident while using their GPS.

In addition to being a distraction, a GPS can also cause frustration. 46% of respondents have experienced road rage while using a GPS. 53% of said respondents were men, and 40% were women.

Whether you love or hate your GPS, always remember to stay safe while using them. Program your trips before you drive. If you have to update a direction, find a safe place to pull over to. Lastly, don’t get mad at other drivers over a GPS incident—you don’t want to become a statistic.

Methodology: Between January 25 and January 31, 2022, we surveyed 1,255 drivers in 20 of the cities with the most cars per person according to data from the U.S. Census Bureau’s 2019 American Community Survey and CoPilot:

• Albuquerque, New Mexico
• Arlington, Texas
• Aurora, Colorado
• Austin, Texas
• Bakersfield, California
• Charlotte, North Carolina
• Colorado Springs, Colorado
• Denver, Colorado
• Fort Worth, Texas
• Kansas City, Missouri
• Louisville, Kentucky
• Mesa, Arizona
• Nashville, Tennessee
• Oklahoma City, Oklahoma
• Omaha, Nebraska
• Raleigh, North Carolina
• Sacramento, California
• Tulsa, Oklahoma
• Virginia Beach, Virginia
• Wichita, Kansas

Of respondents, 52% identify as male, 48% as female, and the average age was 37. A majority (99%) use driving as their primary mode of transportation, and 97% own their car; 15% have been driving for 5 years or less; 34% for 6-10 years; 23% for 11-19 years; and 28% for 20 years or longer. Most have lived in their city for longer than 5 years (53%); 27% for 1-3 years; 17% for 4-5 years; and 3% for less than a year.

The post Study Reveals Where Drivers Are Most Reliant on Their GPS appeared first on Tire Reviews, Buying Guide & Interesting Facts - Utires.com.

Where To Recycle Tires + State-by-State Disposal Fees

You may have heard of a tire disposal fee for every new set of tires purchased. Here, we’ll explain the types of disposal fees and where to recycle tires.

In 1909, there were fewer than 306,000 registered cars on the road. By 2021, the number was just shy of 297 million — 970 times as many. And those millions of cars go through millions of tires every year: Automobiles produce about 263 million waste tires annually in the United States alone. But how should those tires be properly disposed of?

We’ll explain where to dispose of tires and the associated tire disposal fees.

Table of Contents

• Tire landfill bans by state
• How to recycle tires
• Types of disposal fees
• Disposal fees by state
• What happens to recycled tires
• Environmental impact of old tires
• Can you sell old tires?

Tire Landfill Bans by State

Over time, many U.S. states have implemented landfill tire bans due to the amount of tire waste accumulation in landfills and the toxic chemicals they contain.

How To Recycle Tires

Recycled tires can be used for things like rammed earth construction materials, for earthquake proofing, and in other civil engineering projects such as asphalt mixes for road construction, wall fillings, and bridge abutments.

As much as half of all the recycled tire mass in the U.S. is used in the production of tire-derived fuels. Those fuels can be used in boilers, thermal power plants, and the cement, paper, and mining industries.

Other tire material is used in accessories for cattle, the production of footwear, as highway crash barriers, or in floor mats. That welcome mat outside your front door might have been rolling down the highway in a previous life.

But in order to get your old tires to that point, you have to get them to a recycler. Here are some ways to do so:

Contact a Tire Disposal Service

You can contact a tire disposal service to pick up your old tires and have them taken away to a recycling center. You may have to pay a recycling fee for them to pick up your tires and haul them away.

Drop Them Off at a Local Tire Scrap Recycling Center

You can contact and go to a tire recycling center yourself and drop off used tires, old tires, new tires, trailer tires, truck tires, and replacement tires. Such collection sites typically require permits to operate, and some states place restrictions on the height of each tire pile, the distance between them, drainage conditions, and the distance from property lines.

You can use Earth911 to find a local tire scrap recycling center. Dial 1-800-CLEANUP, or search the material you are recycling along with your ZIP code.

Any type of tire can be dropped off at a local scrap tire facility. But as with pickup services, there may be waste recycling fees to drop them off.

Pay the Disposal Fee After Purchasing New Tires

If you are buying a new set of tires from a tire dealer, you can expect to pay a state tire fee and a tire disposal fee, which cover the cost of having a tire disposal service take care of your old tires for you. For every sale of new tires, there will be a tire fee from any tire retailer or tire manufacturer.

Types of Disposal Fees

Disposal fees and tire recycling programs vary from state to state, and they often depend on the size of the tire or the size of the vehicle. Some states leave the collection of those fees to the retailer. As of 2018, Hawaii required that retailers charged a fee, but left how much they charged to the seller’s discretion.

The fees go by many different names, such as waste tire recycling fee, tire fee, or waste management fee. These all serve the same purpose.

Tire Disposal Fee

This fee covers the cost of a licensed tire disposal service to dispose of your old tires properly. It allows a waste tire management disposal service to take your old tires and bring them to a tire recycling facility for disposal.

State Tire Fee

This fee, also called a new tire fee, is charged for every new set of tires purchased. It’s levied by the state in which you purchase your tires, so it can vary from one jurisdiction to another. The fee typically goes toward funding recycling programs that reduce the number of stockpiled scrap tires.

These fees are not prohibitive. In general, they range from $1 to $5 per tire, depending on the state, with larger tires at times carrying heavier fees.

Many states adopted tire regulations in the late 1980s and early 1990s. In the South, for example, 14 of 15 states have systems to track waste tires from their point of generation to their end use. Most also have mobile tire waste processors, and many encourage voluntary forfeiture of waste tires through amnesty days, on which they can be delivered without penalty.

Here’s a list of state tire fees by state:

List of State Tire Fees by State
State	Fee per New Tire Sold
Alabama	$1 per tire
Alaska	$2.50 for each new tire, plus $5 extra for each studded tire
Arizona	2% of the retail price of the tire, up to $2 per tire
Arkansas	$2 per new car tire plus $3 for each new truck tire with a 20-inch rim or larger
California	$1.75 per tire
Colorado	$1.25 per tire
Connecticut	$2 per tire
Delaware	$2 per tire
Florida	$1 per tire
Georgia	$1 per tire
Hawaii	$1 surcharge per tire imported to the state, paid by importers
Idaho	None (illegal dumping subject to $500 fine)
Illinois	$2.50 per tire
Indiana	$0.25 per tire
Iowa	Retailers have the option of charging a fee
Kansas	$3 per tire
Kentucky	$2 per tire
Louisiana	$2 per tire weighing less than 100 pounds$5 per tire for each medium truck tire$10 per tire for each off-road tire
Maine	$1 per tire
Maryland	$0.80 per tire
Massachusetts	None specific, but “best practices” are recommended
Michigan	Scrap Tire Program is funded by a $1.50 vehicle title transfer fee
Minnesota	None; retailers may charge a “reasonable fee for tire disposal”
Mississippi	$1 per tire with a rim size less than 24 inches$2 per tire with a rim size greater than 24 inches
Missouri	$0.50 per tire
Montana	None
Nebraska	$1 per tire
Nevada	$1 per tire
New Hampshire	None, but towns may charge for disposal
New Jersey	$1.50 per tire
New Mexico	$1.50 per tire
New York	$2.50 per tire
North Carolina	2% disposal tax on the total cost of the tire with a rim size of 19.5 inches or less1% disposal tax on the total cost of the tire with a rim size of more than 19.5 inches
North Dakota	None
Ohio	$1 per tire
Oklahoma	$2.90 per tire with a rim size is between 17.5 and 19.5 inches$5.50 per tire with a rim size greater than 19.5 inches
Oregon	None
Pennsylvania	$1 per tire
Rhode Island	$5 per tire
South Carolina	$2 per tire
South Dakota	$0.25 per tire, not to exceed $1 per vehicle, on vehicle registration at the county level
Tennessee	$1.35 per tire
Texas	None; retailers can charge a fee, but it doesn’t go to the state
Utah	$1 per tire
Vermont	None
Virginia	$0.50 per tire
Washington	$1 per tire
West Virginia	None. “The retailer may charge a disposal fee to cover the actual costs of lawful waste tire disposal.”
Wisconsin	Various local jurisdictions have their own fees, such as a $5 fee per tire with a rim size less than 24 inches in Janesville and a $5 fee in Madison.
Wyoming	None

This isn’t the whole picture, though. In Wyoming, for example, the Laramie Landfill charges a landfill disposal fee of $4 each for auto and light truck tires, $10 for heavy truck and light industrial tires, and $75 for heavy equipment tires.

What Happens to Recycled Tires?

Tires wear out and have to be replaced. But what happens to them then?

Maybe you tied one to a rope and a tree branch to make a swing when you were younger, or perhaps you used an innertube for snow sledding. That’s one form of tire recycling, but there are many other options today.

Tires turned in for recycling are often shipped to a commercial reprocessing plant that breaks them down into materials that can be reused for rubber-modified asphalt. The remaining rubber materials can be used on playground surfaces, in landfill construction, on sidewalk or road pavements, and in running tracks at high schools, junior highs, and other athletic venues.

If they’re not recycled, tires may be dumped in a landfill, where they slowly decompose (although tires can last hundreds of years). Or they may be burned for tire-derived fuel.

Overall, more tires are being reused than ever before. In 2017, more than 4 in 5 tires, or 81%, were being recycled, compared to just 11% in 1990. But that still leaves 16% sitting in landfills, with others being burned at poorly equipped facilities, which release pollutants such as chlorine and zinc into the atmosphere.

Environmental Impact of Old Tires

There are different types of tires, some of which use a lot more rubber than others. Some tires are recycled or upcycled, but that isn’t always the case.

• 12 million tires per year are converted into ground rubber and used in rubber-modified asphalt.
• 3.9 million tons of waste tires are generated per year in the U.S.
• 43% of scrap tires are used for tire-derived fuel, 25% are used for ground rubber, 16% are disposed of in landfills, and 8% are used in civil engineering.

The EPA classifies waste tires as solid waste. Tire accumulation can create health and environmental challenges such as landfill buildup. Tires can take a long time to decompose: The South Carolina Department of Natural Resources has estimated that it can take 2,000 years for tires to return to nature.

But landfills aren’t the only problem. Tires pollute the environment in ways we can’t always see, creating challenges such as air and water contaminations before they’re even off the road. According to a 2019 report, air pollution from particles produced by tire wear can be 1,000 times more harmful than car exhaust fumes.

During their lifetime, passenger tires on light trucks shed nearly 2.5 pounds of rubber, a 2013 report found. That tire waste can find its way into waterways, lakes, ponds, and the ocean. It can get stuck in shrimp gills and ball up in their stomachs, creating chronic health problems.

Tire stockpiles can also serve as ideal breeding grounds for mosquitoes. And tires are also flammable, and though they aren’t easy to ignite, they are notoriously difficult to extinguish, and release toxic fumes from hazardous compounds like oil, gases, and heavy metals into the air as they burn. Water often does little good in attempting to douse a tire fire and is often better used for watering down adjacent tires to keep them from burning.

A couple of massive tire fires illustrate the extent of the potential damage. A 1999 tire fire caused by a lightning strike in Westly, California, took 30 days to extinguish at a cost of $3.5 million. Smoke emissions created health problems across the area, and oil from the tires flowed down a slope and into the drainage system.

In 1983, 7 million tires burned in Rhinehart, Virginia, creating a plume of smoke 3,000 feet high and 50 miles long, covering three states. It burned for nine months and polluted water sources in the area with arsenic and lead.

Can You Sell Old Tires?

The short answer is yes, you can. Rather than hauling your old tires to a landfill, you can offer your vehicle tires for resale if the rubber and tread are still in good condition. There are a few ways, including the following:

• Contact local tire retailers. Many tire dealers sell used tires that still have life in them, and some deal exclusively in pre-owned tires.
• Look for retreading facilities or shops. Remolded tires can be up to 40% cheaper than new tires, plus they require much less oil than new tires do, making them environmentally friendly. So in addition to turning your old tires in at such a shop, purchasing retread or remolded tires can be a means of helping the environment.
• Use online sites such as eBay, American classifieds, and Craigslist to set a price and advertise your used tires for sale.

It may cost you a little bit to get rid of your old tires, but it’s not a major cost, and the fee you pay will help the environment. It’s important to know what to expect, though, and how to be safe on the road no matter which tires you choose.

The post Where To Recycle Tires + State-by-State Disposal Fees appeared first on Tire Reviews, Buying Guide & Interesting Facts - Utires.com.

Driving Posture Tips and Stretches for a Long Trip

If you’re in a vehicle for long drives, it’s important to improve your driving posture and incorporate stretching into your routine to prevent aches and pains.

Whether you’re commuting to work, traveling cross-country on a vacation, or driving for a living, you’ve likely felt it at some point. Your lower back starts to ache. Your arms and shoulders start to tense from gripping the steering wheel. Your upper legs start to hurt from sitting too long.

If you’re in a vehicle for long drives, it’s important to improve your driving posture and incorporate stretching into your routine to prevent aches and pains.

Adjusting your car’s seat position, as well as getting up and stretching periodically, are all important steps to alleviate these problems. These techniques can help you endure long trips behind the wheel (or in the passenger seat), and save you from aches and pains that can otherwise linger after you’ve parked.

Seat Position for Back Support

Ergonomics and proper posture are just as important when you’re driving as when you’re sitting at a workstation — perhaps even more so. Good driving posture can help minimize pain and fatigue.

Seat positioning is important. Make sure your seat is adjusted to achieve the best posture and maximum comfort. You should have enough legroom to operate the pedals easily while keeping your right leg slightly bent.

Your car seat should not recline too far. Adjust the seatback so it supports all parts of your back, creating an angle for your body of about 100 to 110 degrees.

Angle the front of your seat so it doesn’t press against the back of your knees, leaving a gap of two fingers between the seat and the back of your knees. Pull the steering wheel down and toward you to keep yourself from reaching too far, which can create fatigue in the arms and shoulders. Keep the head restraint approximately even with the top of your head and within 4 inches of the back of your head. This feature provides support that can help reduce whiplash in the event of a collision from the rear.

Seat Height and Inclination for Visibility

Your seat height should be adjusted so your legs and back are properly supported and you don’t have to reach too far. Good visibility is important so you don’t find yourself leaning forward or bending down to see both the road and your dashboard. Your hips should be at least as high as your knees to avoid putting too much pressure on the back of your legs.

If your car doesn’t provide lumbar support for your lower back (some seatbacks have an inflatable element you can adjust), consider getting a cushion or even using a rolled-up towel or pillow.

When it comes to visibility, make sure your rear-view mirror is adjusted so you don’t have to bend or twist to use it.

Steering Wheel Adjustment for Neck and Shoulder Comfort

Make sure your steering wheel isn’t so high you have to reach up significantly, which can create arm and neck fatigue. The wheel should be close enough that you can bend your arms at about a 120-degree angle while driving. If you’re not close enough, move your seat forward.

You may recall being told to drive with your hands at the 10 and 2 o’clock positions on the wheel, but the 9 and 3 o’clock positions are safer in the event your airbag deploys. You’ll have to use your neck and shoulder muscles more in this position, but you can minimize the strain by gripping the wheel lightly with your fingers rather than your palms. In addition, this lower position may allow you to rest your elbow on the vehicle armrest to reduce stress and pain in your upper back.

Headrest Alignment for Neck Support

Your headrest should be close enough to your head to prevent whiplash in the event of a collision — no more than 4 inches away and, preferably, just touching the back of your head. However, it should not be pushed up against your head so tightly that it causes you to lean forward. This can create neck strain and reduce visibility. The top of the headrest should be no higher than the top of your head.

Seat Belt Safety

The National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA) cautions that seat belts should be worn to minimize the risk of injuries in an accident. In many states, it’s the law.

A total of 35 states, plus the District of Columbia, allow officers to ticket drivers if seat belts aren’t worn by front-seat occupants, regardless of whether any other infractions have taken place. Fifteen states allow officers to write tickets for failure to wear seat belts if they see another infraction, and 39 allow some kind of enforcement for failing to wear rear seat belts.

It’s important not just to wear seat belts, but to wear them properly. Don’t wear a shoulder harness under your arm, for example, and be sure your lap belt is snug across your hips. Airbags are not a replacement for seat belts; they won’t protect you if you’re hit from the side or if you’re in a rollover accident.

Stretches for Drivers

It’s a good idea to stop periodically and stand up to stretch, but there are also stretches you can do while driving or riding in a car. You should always be sure, however, that you keep your eyes and attention on the road and are not distracted.

Neck Stretch

While looking forward, tilt your head to one side, put your ear to your shoulder, then hold that position for five seconds. Repeat this stretch on the opposite side, and go through this procedure two to five times.

When you’re stopped, you can turn your neck to one side, then the other, and hold for five seconds each time. You can also stretch your head forward, touching your chin to your chest. (For more stretches you can do when your vehicle isn’t moving, see below.)

Shoulder Stretch

Shrug your shoulders, lifting them as high as you can, then hold them there for a few seconds, release, and repeat. You can also roll your shoulders slowly, while still facing forward, to ease tension.

Back Stretch

Roll your rear end forward slowly, away from your seat, to create an arch in the small of your back. Hold that position for up to five seconds, then roll your back so it’s flat against the seat.

Stretches for Passengers

You don’t have to be in the driver’s seat to benefit from stretching to ease stress during car trips. Passengers can find themselves uncomfortable if they’re sitting for long periods, too. Here are some stretches passengers can do to ease tension and discomfort.

Oblique Stretch

Put your hands above your head, taking hold of your right wrist with your left hand, then exhale as you lean to your left from your ribcage. Hold that position for a few seconds, then reverse and repeat on the other side.

Arm Stretch

Leaning forward, put both hands behind your back and pull your shoulders back. Hold this position for five seconds and repeat. Drivers can do this exercise standing up when they’re pulled over.

Glute Stretch

Sit up straight and rotate your trunk to one side. Hold that position for five seconds and release, then turn to the other side.

Stretches To Do When Parked

Some stretches aren’t possible and others aren’t safe when your vehicle is in motion. If you’re parked, however, here are some that you can try that will still be helpful.

Cat/Cow Stretch

What do these animals have to do with stretching? It’s all about yoga. You start out as a cow, then pose like a cat. It works like this: Placing your hands palms-down on your seat, push your chest out and roll your shoulders back to create an arched-back cow pose. Then round your shoulders down again, assuming a cat pose.

Hand Stretch

Stretching your arms out past the steering wheel, bend your wrists down so your fingers are pointed down, and then bend them upward. Repeat 5 to 10 times.

Ankle Stretch

Rotate each ankle in a counterclockwise direction. Complete 5 to 10 full rotations. Repeat in a clockwise direction for each ankle.

Hip Stretch

Hip Stretch

Leg Stretch

You’ll have to get out of the car for this exercise because you’ll need to be standing up. Place your hand on a wall beside you to balance, then grab your outside ankle with your hand and lift your leg up toward your buttocks while keeping your knees together. Inhale and release one relaxed breath, then repeat on the other side. This will help stimulate blood flow to the legs after driving.

The Bottom Line

Many of the same tips that you’ve learned for avoiding poor posture at your desk can be applied, with modifications, in your car. You need to make sure your seat cushion is the right height, and that you’re at eye level with your windshield for a clear view. Your shoulder blades should be relaxed, and you shouldn’t be slouching or bending forward, away from the back of the seat.

Before you take a long drive, make sure to check your tire pressure and tire tread, and perform other routine maintenance tasks. And don’t forget to stop, take breaks, and stretch. This will keep you more comfortable on the road and make the trip a more pleasant experience.

The post Driving Posture Tips and Stretches for a Long Trip appeared first on Tire Reviews, Buying Guide & Interesting Facts - Utires.com.

A Guide to Vehicle Modifications for People with Disabilities

Special vehicle modifications for people with disabilities can help keep you on the road. Here’s a comprehensive guide to help properly equip your vehicle.

Types of Car Modifications and Adaptive Equipment

There are many options when it comes to adapting and modifying a vehicle. From chair lifts to hand controls, there are modifications for nearly every need.

Accelerators and Pedal Modifications

There are many accelerators and pedal modifications to assist people with disabilities. These modifications can help:

• Increase range of motion for people with limited mobility
• Allow people to use their left foot instead of their right foot to control the petals
• Extend the pedals for those whose legs are unable to each

Assistance Straps and Amputee Rings

To help drivers with entering or exiting the car, assist straps are a worthy option. These devices strap around a vehicle’s window frame through a front or back door. Drivers or passengers can then use these straps to pull themselves up and out of the vehicle.

Assist straps are only to be used before the vehicle is started. They must be removed from the frame before driving begins.

Amputee rings are another form of simple car modification. They are designed for drivers with below-elbow amputations. The rings clamp onto a steering wheel. The driver then attaches their prosthetic to the wheel for steering.

Hand Controls

Hand controls allow drivers to control the vehicle’s acceleration and braking with just their hands. Controlled by a hand lever, these mechanical systems attach to the foot pedals. Typically, these controls are operated by the left hand. The right hand steers, shifts, and operates the car’s other systems.

There are many styles of hand controls:

• Push-pull systems work by pushing or pulling a lever to brake or speed up.
• The Right Angle system is similar to standard push-pull controls. It differs in that the pulling motion has been replaced with a right-angle turn. This makes it easier to move the handle.
• Push-rock levers are designed for drivers with little to no use of their fingers. When the driver pushes the handle forward, the vehicle brakes; when he rocks it backward, the vehicle accelerates.

Ramps and Wheelchair Lifts

Ramps and lifts are perfect for drivers that use wheelchairs and scooters. As the name suggests, these devices will lift and secure a mobility device inside or onto the vehicle.

There are both occupied and unoccupied lift systems.

• Occupied systems are designed to lift mobility devices that the person doesn’t leave. In these systems, the mobility device is secured onto the lifting platform with manual or automatic tie-downs. The driver then controls the lift to bring the device and driver into the cabin and ready to drive.
• Unoccupied systems include hoists and platform lifts. Hoists keep the mobility device locked on the outside of the vehicle. Once attached to the hoist, the wheelchair or scooter is lifted off the ground. It’s then secured on a rack or platform on the back of the vehicle. These are often used for scooters or for drivers who wish to keep their car’s interiors free of their mobility devices.

A similar system is used with ramps and docking systems. Instead of using a lift to bring a device and driver into the car, the mobility device is driven up a ramp. There, it then locks into the docking station. These systems are often used with power-operated wheelchairs. They can then act as a standard vehicle seat once secured in place.

Seat and Seat Belt Adjustments

Adaptive seat modifications can be used to assist drivers in and out of a vehicle. Powered transfer seats can swivel, rotate, and lift in many directions. This allows drivers to easily transfer into their seats. Some seat adaptations will even extend out of the vehicle and allow a driver to easily get into the seat. Then, they retract the seat back into the vehicle and the driver is ready to go.

There are options for people with limited ability to transfer out of a wheelchair. Wheelchair restraints and docking systems can secure the wheelchair to the floor of the vehicle. Once secured, it is locked in place like a standard car seat.

Seat belt adjustments are also popular. They include torso restraints and lap belts for extra safety.

Steering Wheel Adjustments and Knobs

There are many steering adjustments that make it easier and safer for a person with disabilities to drive.

• Steering knobs: These range in size, shape, and design to suit any need. Common styles include spinner knobs that easily fit in the hand and allow for a gentle grip to steer the wheel. Modified knob styles include pins, handles, and palm grips.
• Lightened power steering: This makes the steering wheel easier to turn and helps to reduce pain and fatigue when steering. These systems work well in tandem with other devices, such as steering knobs or handles.

There are also complete steering system redesigns. They can include foot-operated steering wheels, joysticks, and even acceleration/brake control. These systems can be customized to a drivers’ comfort and their specific abilities, but they are often the most expensive option.

Average Costs of Adaptive Devices and Vehicle Modifications

Adapted vehicles allow people with disabilities to drive with improved safety and comfort, but some of these systems can be pricey. In fact, it can cost upwards of $80,000 for a new, adapted vehicle. There are assistance programs that can help reduce these costs, but it is beneficial to look at the various options for each system. A driver will have to determine which modifications work best for their driving situation.

Larger modifications, such as lifts and ramps, will always cost the most — sometimes more than $30,000. But many drivers will be able to use cheaper devices, such as steering knobs and specialized seat cushions. These assistive devices will make their vehicles accessible and safe to drive for under $100 in some circumstances.

It is also important to keep in mind the continued costs associated with vehicle modifications. The added weight to the car will increase the wear and tear on the tires. Routine car maintenance will help ensure the vehicle is in top shape and that the modifications are functioning as intended.

Modification	Price
Accelerators and pedal modifications	$100-$1200
Assistance straps	$10-$50
Amputee rings	$80-$400
Hand controls (push-pull devices)	$150-$1500
Scooter and wheelchair lifts	$1500-$4000
Scooter and wheelchair ramps	$500-$30,000
Seat belt adjustments	$30-$400
Seat adjustments	$10,000
Steering wheel knobs	$10-$300

Disclaimer: This data is an average of available products from a variety of manufacturers. It is meant to give an idea. Every person, vehicle, and specific accessibility need will be unique. As such, expect the cost of equipment and installation to vary based on the manufacturer, item need, or even the type of vehicle involved.

Manufacturer Discounts and Rebates for Adaptive Equipment

Fortunately, there are plenty of manufacturer discounts and rebates for adaptive equipment. Many vehicle manufacturers offer up to $1,000 reimbursement for the installation of adaptive equipment. Meanwhile, different equipment manufacturers can provide similar rebates on the equipment itself.

Those looking for adaptive equipment should shop at a medical equipment provider. These vendors often participate in Medicare and Medicaid and work with state programs that provide financial help for assistive technology.

Alternatively, used equipment is often much cheaper than new. Many programs and tools exist to help people find the specific equipment they may be looking for. But, as with any second-hand equipment, buyers must do their due diligence. Often, warranties won’t carry over to a new owner. Be sure to have any piece evaluated by a professional before purchasing. And make sure the items work with your existing vehicle.

What Cars Are Best for Vehicle Modifications?

When looking for an adaptable car, there are plenty of specific details to consider. The vehicle should be able to handle the extra weight and capacity of the modifications. Additionally, a new vehicle should already come with many standard accessibility features. These include dashboard-mounted ignition, omni-directional seat adjustment, and entry/exit support handles.

The following makes and models are considered great options for drivers with disabilities. Their unique specifications make them ideal for adaptive equipment.

• Honda Odyssey: The Odyssey is a reliable and affordable option to begin with, but it makes a great adaptability choice due to the ease with which it can be modified.

  • VMI Honda Odyssey: Designed specifically for drivers with disabilities, the Vantage Mobility Odyssey features an in-floor ramp, spacious interiors, and a lowering suspension, among other details.
• Ford Mustang: For those looking for a bit of fun with their ride, the Mustang is a great choice. It is easily able to support carriers, lifts, and power-assist seating.
• Chevrolet Silverado: Able to easily handle the weight of modifications, the Silverado is a fine choice for an adapted vehicle. Its cab doors open wide to allow easy entrance, and the bed makes a great spot for a wheelchair lift.
• Jeep Grand Cherokee: Strong and robust, the Grand Cherokee can be outfitted with lifts, power seats, and driving devices. The Grand Cherokee also supports running boards, and installing them can provide a $400 refund.
• Scion xB: Though currently out of production, 2004-2006 Scion xB makes a great adapted vehicle. These model years can be fitted with a rear-mounted wheelchair ramp. Additionally, it readily accommodates lifts, steering devices, and hand controls throughout.
• Subaru Forester: The Forester can be modified at the factory for hand and foot controls. And, since it’s a compact SUV, it provides a sturdy and spacious platform that isn’t too big or difficult to get into.
• Hyundai Sonata: Though it is a sedan, the Sonata is a safe and comfortable ride. Full of tech and easy to enter, it provides an accessible and affordable vehicle.
• Toyota RAV4: Able to be factory modified for powered lift seats and rear lifts, the RAV4 is a study, compact SUV.
• Lexus RX: The Lexus RX is a full-size luxury car. Spacious and easy to get into, it also features ample tech assistance.
• Kia Soul: A boxy SUV, the Soul has a high ceiling and wide doors, making it great for easy entry and comfort. They also tend to be cheaper than other car models.

Should You Modify Your Existing Vehicle or Buy a New Vehicle?

It’s becoming more and more workable for people to modify existing vehicles. Still, there’s an appeal to buying specialized vehicles or trading in your old car for a model that’s better suited for upgrades.

A new vehicle will allow you to incorporate the exact modifications you require, tailored to your specific needs. By shopping for a new (or new to you) vehicle, you can ensure that it will be large and strong enough to fit the equipment you need. The downside of purchasing a vehicle is the price.

Alternatively, you can adapt your existing vehicle to meet your needs. This is typically cheaper since you don’t need to purchase a new car. However, there are some downsides. Not every car is suitable for all adaptive systems.

If your car isn’t suitable, trading in an existing vehicle can offset some of the expense. If money isn’t a factor, consider recycling or donating your old car — especially if it has existing modifications that another person with disabilities could make use of.

You can also look at other cost-saving steps, such as purchasing used tires. Used tires from reputable sources can save you money. And those funds can be better used on modifications.

Ultimately, the choice will come down to each person’s needs.

Requirements for Getting an Adapted Driver’s License

Once you have a vehicle that is adapted and ready to drive, it’s time to get your license. But, it is a more involved process than the standard path to a driver’s license.

1. Meet with your primary care doctor. Your doctor will give you a physical to ensure you meet the health and ability requirements needed to operate an adapted car.
2. Work with a driver rehabilitation specialist. This professional will examine the car and the adaptations to ensure they are safe and proper. They will also evaluate the driver to ensure they have the necessary skills needed to drive, such as dexterity and range of motion. If all goes well, the specialist will sign off and you’ll be allowed to start practicing driving with your adaptations.
3. Meet state requirements. Much like any new driver, the next stage of training and education varies state by state. Each area will require a certain amount of classwork and on-road training hours. But, as long as your physician and driver rehabilitation specialist have agreed you are able to drive, you will be able to begin training to be a driver.

A disability is not a legal reason to deny a person a license. By starting with a physician and rehabilitation specialist, you prove that you have shown the necessary ability to drive a car. Of course, depending on your disability, you might be granted a restricted license. These restrictions can require corrective eyeglasses must always be worn. Other hearing-alternative car alerts can be installed.

If all of these are met and training is passed, you will be well on your way to becoming a driver.

Find a Driver Rehabilitation Specialist

Once you and your physician have determined you are able to drive, you’ll need to work with a driver rehabilitation specialist. These individuals will test the driver and the adapted vehicle. These evaluations look at many factors, including:

• Coordination
• Dexterity
• Range of motion
• Vision
• Reaction time
• Psychological health
• Ability to use and understand adaptive equipment

The specialist will work with the individual to ensure their vehicle, equipment, and abilities are suitable and working.

These specialists work with people of all needs, ages, and disabilities. To find an evaluator, look in the national databases that list all accredited specialists.

How To Register for a Driving Evaluation

Once you’ve ensured that you and your vehicle are ready for the road, you must take a driving evaluation. Registering for an evaluation starts with searching for a specialist. Each will have different processes for registering.

During the evaluation, the driver will be tested on their ability to both drive and use the adapted equipment in the vehicle. This includes reaction times and decision making, as well as vision and other physical abilities.

The specialist will often suggest adaptive solutions that will make you a better driver. This can range from wheelchair lifts to electronic driving systems. Based on the equipment used, evaluations can take between three and eight hours.

Car Insurance Laws and the Americans with Disabilities Act (ADA)

Any discrimination against people with disabilities is illegal. The Americans with Disabilities Act ensures that insurance companies cannot deny car insurance because of a disability or due to the use of adaptive equipment.

The ADA has been in place since 1990. Since then, it has protected people with disabilities. In addition to protections against discrimination in the area of insurance, the ADA prohibits discrimination based on disability in the following areas:

• Employment
• Government positions
• Public accommodations
• Commercial facilities
• Transportation
• Telecommunications

With that being said, some disabilities will affect insurance rates and amounts. While the disability itself won’t cause a price increase, the needed modifications to the vehicle may. For example:

• Wheelchair lifts and ramps add value to the vehicle, increasing insurance premiums.
• Drivers with vision and hearing impairment may be considered to have added risk, which can increase premiums.
• Drivers who are prone to epileptic or fainting episodes may be considered a higher risk.

How To Get Car Insurance for Adaptive Equipment

Getting car insurance as a person with a disability is nearly the same as a person without a disability. Premiums will be influenced by any verifiable risks and any changes in vehicle value that the disability or adapted modifications bring.

Aside from this, the process is the same. Be sure to shop around for the best rates. Look for discounts or rebates offered for driving modified vehicles.

Car Insurance Discounts for People With Disabilities

In addition to rebates and discounts for modifications, there are other ways to save on insurance costs. All drivers should shop around before purchasing insurance. Different providers will offer different rates and premiums; so, naturally, the best insurance provider for you will vary depending on your needs and other factors, with or without a disability.

In most cases, car insurance will cover adaptive equipment. This includes after-market additions and other modifications needed to drive. Insurance can also cover temporary transportation if your main vehicle is being serviced. Additionally, some car insurance will cover any specialized non-vehicle equipment damaged in a car accident. This can include wheelchairs and scooters.

Financial Assistance for Adapted Vehicles

Equipping a vehicle with adaptive equipment can be expensive. And not everyone will qualify for discounts, rebates, or even insurance coverage. In that case, there are options for financial assistance to cover the costs of equipment.

State Grants

State grants are one way for people to receive the funding they need for an adapted vehicle. Every state will have different authorities and grant sources, so it is important to do the necessary research. However, most grants come from ADA centers, disability foundations, and other statewide disability councils.

These grants often provide direct funding to cover some or all of the necessary upgrade costs. Grants can even cover the cost of an entire vehicle.

Qualifying needs are determined by the grant providers. Not everyone who applies will qualify or be selected. But, as grants are gifts and have no repayment terms, they are compelling opportunities for extra assistance.

Medicare, Medicaid, and Other Financial Assistance Programs

Aside from grants, there are several other options for financial assistance. Medicare Part B and Medicaid can both cover vehicle modifications. The modifications have to count as durable medical equipment. Individuals and vehicles are subject to an initial evaluation to ensure the equipment is medically necessary. This can be corroborated with physicians’ prescriptions and other documentation.

Medicaid is run at a state level, so each state will have different subcategories and allowances for different financing needs. Be sure to look at your state’s specific rules.

VA benefits can also cover vehicle modifications. To be eligible, individuals must have a disability related to their military service. In addition, other specific conditions must be met, including:

• Loss, or permanent loss of use, of one or both hands or feet.
• Permanent decreased vision in one or both eyes
• A severe burn
• ALS
• Ankylosis in knees or hips

VA benefits provide up to $21,488.29 to buy a specially-equipped vehicle. There are also extra grant opportunities for further modification. This includes lift equipment and power steering.

Finally, there are state-based financial programs to help individuals with disabilities. State vocational rehabilitation agencies often provide vehicle modification assistance. This assistance is usually through grants and loans.

The post A Guide to Vehicle Modifications for People with Disabilities appeared first on Tire Reviews, Buying Guide & Interesting Facts - Utires.com.

The Ultimate RV Maintenance Checklist for Every Season

Before you hit the road for your next adventure, be sure you’re up to date on all the necessary RV maintenance with our handy checklist.

Long road trips are par for the course when you’re an RV owner, but to ensure safer travels on your next adventure, it’s important to know the requirements for pre-trip, monthly, semi-annual, and annual maintenance on your RV. Therefore, we’ve created a maintenance checklist just for you!

Table of Contents

• How often should you check your RV for repairs?
• Pre-trip maintenance
• Monthly RV maintenance
• Seasonal/Semi-Annual RV maintenance
• Yearly RV maintenance
• Essential RV amenities

Pre-trip maintenance

Perform pre-trip maintenance before every trip. Even a well-maintained RV needs a solid examination before setting out for a trip far away or close to home. This may sound like an obvious step to take if your RV has been sitting for a while and you’re planning your first trip of the season. However, even if you’re just preparing to leave a campground for your next destination or heading home, pre-trip maintenance offers essential preventative care. You get a chance to note any small things that could lead to big issues while on the road.

Because every RV is different, you can customize your own checklist based on a series of important components you should examine both inside and outside of your RV.

Inside your RV

To compile your custom checklist, walk from the front to the back of the vehicle and write down all of your checkpoints in order. That way, you’re less likely to overlook an item on your list. You can use the following checklist to create your own pre-trip checklist for the inside of your RV or just check off the items online as you go:

Turn off the furnace

Your furnace runs on propane, which can open you to a host of problems if you travel with it on, including the pilot light being blown out causing methane to leak into your unit. So switching it off before you leave avoids these hazards

Turn off the water pump

Even a small leak can turn into a big flooding problem when you’re on the road. Shutting off your water pump ensures no water flows through your RV while traveling.

Turn off the refrigerator

Even small shifts while driving can cause your fridge’s propane line to break. Since a switched-off RV fridge filled with ice-cold beverages and food won’t drop its temp much if you leave the door closed—even for eight hours of traveling—turning it off while driving makes the safest choice.

Turn off the pilot lights

Since you’re switching off all of your propane-fed appliances, you won’t need the pilot lights. So turning them off helps prevent propane-related issues like gas leaks.

Check antenna

Outdoor antennas can easily snap, so if you have an outdoor antenna, make sure you lower and properly store it before setting out.

Turn off the water heater

Like any other appliance in your RV, slight shifts from traveling can cause dangerous propane leaks. Since you won’t have to wait long for it to reheat at your destination, keep it off while traveling.

Close and secure all windows

Of course, open windows allow dust and dirt just as they would in a car, but unlike a car, open RV windows can cause uneven pressure that leads to blown-out windows. Open RV windows can also cause your RV to sway dangerously with even small wind gusts.

Close all the roof vents

Similar to windows, you want to keep roof vents closed while traveling to keep out dust and debris as well as moisture.

Secure all large items

Even if wall-mounted, be sure things like your TV and computer are stored and secured tight so they don’t get damaged en route.

Close and lock cabinets

After carefully storing items in your cabinets, you don’t want them falling out, or worse, having flapping cabinet doors damaging the interior of your RV while driving.

Close and latch interior doors

An RV frame may shift slightly while traveling and allow doors to open, which can obstruct views or damage the inside of your RV. So be sure you don’t simply close interior doors but also latch them tightly to prevent them from opening on the road.

Secure all entry doors

Like interior doors, exterior entry points can open when your RV frame flexes on the road. Locking may not be enough so be sure to secure all doors to prevent them from opening while driving.

Secure all trash cans

Empty your trash cans before you get underway and secure them in place so that you don’t have trash or empty cans rolling around your RV. Using collapsible trash cans allows you to use less storage space while on the road.

Outside your RV

Walk around the outside of your RV more than once to ensure that you’ve checked everything and leave nothing behind. The following checklist gives you places to check outside your RV but can’t tell you other things, such as which pieces of outside furniture you may have missed:

Check the jacks

Outdoor conditions can cause damage to your jacks so look for things like dents and twisted or corroded metal. Because the vibration of traveling can loosen bolts, check for loose bolts and stripped threads as well. If your RV uses electric or hydraulic jacks, look through your manual to ensure you check all necessary components, such as wiring and hydraulic fluid.

Remove and store chocks

You need your chocks at the next stop so be sure to store them securely after you remove them. Make sure you store them somewhere convenient so you can easily get to them first at your next destination to secure your RV.

Check all your lights

Ensure all your lights are working properly, including high beams, brake lights, fog lamps, and turn signals. Don’t forget to check the lights on your tow vehicle as well, if you have one.

Check the brakes

Just like the lights check the brakes on your RV as well as any tow vehicle you’re using.

Inspect your tires

While the tires are cold, check the tread and walls for wear and tear or uneven tread, check the pressure on each tire, and make sure all lug nuts are tightened. If you need to buy new tires, you should do this now and not when you’re stranded on the road. Be sure to check the tires on your tow vehicle as well.

Remove and store the levelers

Remove whatever system you use for leveling and store them securely for use at your destination.

Put away and secure the awning

Retract all awnings and lock or store them securely.

Check all exterior compartments

Make sure you completely close compartment doors and latch them. Check for and tighten any loose latches.

Clean the campsite and throw away all trash

Check more than once to ensure you leave nothing behind and that you properly dispose of all trash.

Stow and secure all outside furniture and recreational equipment

Just like when you check for trash, be sure that whatever furniture and equipment you’ve used you pack back up. Store and secure all furniture and equipment so that it doesn’t get loose and become a hazard.

Check both the drain and fill hoses

Inspect your hoses for cracks, holes, and breakages, and secure your freshwater, gray water, and black water valves or caps to avoid leaks.

Close off propane tanks

For the same reasons you turn off your water heater and appliances, you should drive with your propane tank closed to avoid dangerous leaks.

Inspect your generator

Make sure it runs properly, shows no signs of corrosion, and that the wiring is in good working order. Change the filter and fluids, if needed.

Remove and store the water pressure regulator

Store this somewhere handy so you can easily grab it when you hit your destination.

Fold up, retract, and secure exterior stairs or steps you use

If your RV isn’t equipped with retractable stairs, store and secure loose steps or stools that you use to enter and exit the RV.

Monthly RV maintenance

Developing a maintenance schedule begins with a monthly list. Even if you haven’t driven your RV in the past month, you need to make sure everything is in running order. Sometimes, leaving it sitting for an extended period is even more reason to do a maintenance check.

Check and repair seals as needed

Check seals around your windows, exterior compartments, doors, and on the roof for any water damage. Repair missing or broken seals and look for signs that water has gotten in, such as standing water, water marks, or a wet interior. Water damage to an RV roof can be extremely expensive to repair, and debris left sitting on your roof can cause damage as well.

Check your wet-cell batteries’ water levels

Check the battery manufacturer’s recommendation for how much water to add to your batteries.

Vacuum and clean air conditioner vents and ducts

Just like your own home not on wheels, make sure you clear these of dust and debris.

Run your generator

You need to exercise your generator each month to keep it in shape. Consult the owner’s manual for your generator to get specifics for how long to run it and how much load to add while it runs.

Check the engine

Whether your RV runs on gas or diesel, starting your engine and taking it for a short drive helps keep engine components lubricated.

Check and top off fluid levels

When the engine is cool, examine your oil, coolant, transmission, brake, and wiper fluids. Follow the steps in your owner’s manual for safely checking these components.How often you need an oil change depends on how much you use your RV. So now is a good time to get that done if your RV is nearly due for one.

Pack and/or repack your emergency toolbox

Make sure you have all the correct tools you need and that you have spare batteries included.

Check smoke detectors and carbon monoxide detectors

All batteries should be working. Be sure you have backups on board.

Check your tire

When tires are sitting in the same position for a long period of time, they lose tire pressure. Inspect your tires so that you can add air as needed, and make sure your lug nuts are tightened, too. When you take your RV for a short drive, pay attention to your alignment and take it to a mechanic if you notice any problems.

Check under your motorhome

Make sure you see no signs of animals trying to nest or hang out under your RV for shelter. Be sure to look for entry holes or damage to equipment like hoses or gaskets. Also check for loose parts, signs of rust, or fluid leaks.

Lubricate and inspect slideouts

Your slideouts should move smoothly and easily. Engage them each month to examine the latches, hinges, and other moving parts. Lubricate them as needed to ensure they move smoothly.

Seasonal/Semi-annual RV maintenance

Seasonal maintenance is important, too. Some items that don’t need to be checked monthly will need attention every six months. So at the six-month mark, while you’re doing one of your monthly inspections, include these items in your monthly checklist, too:

Wax your motorhome’s exterior

Elements from the road, sun exposure, and droppings from animals can damage your exterior when left on your RV. Clean and rinse your vehicle and then wax it to protect it from these damage-causing elements.

Do a thorough damage check

Walk around your RV and inspect the outside for any problems, such as rusted areas, soft areas, or bubbling that could signal water damage, or holes and cracks that could let in dirt, dust, insects, and animals.

Lubricate high-wear metal areas

Hinges, jacks, hitches, slideouts, and other metal moving parts should be lubricated at this time.

Check and/or replace the water filter

Your water filter lasts for three to four months, depending on how often you use your RV. If you are using your RV full time, you need to replace your filter more often than you would for occasional use, so adjust this maintenance task as necessary.

Deep clean or detail RV interior

Just like the exterior, elements allowed to sit inside your RV can lead to bigger problems and damage down the road. Whether your RV sits in the sun or receives no interior light while not in use, a thorough cleaning of your interior every six months helps prevent damage.

Weigh your RV

Weigh your RV with it loaded for a typical trip. Check the manufacturer’s gross axle weight rating (GAWR) for your RV as well as the Gross Combination Weight Rating (GCWR). The GAWR helps you understand how to distribute the weight in your vehicle and the GCWR gives you the maximum weight of everything onboard, including cargo and passengers, and don’t exceed it.

Yearly RV maintenance

Your yearly maintenance checklist should include what’s on your monthly checklist, your semi-annual checklist, plus the following checks you might need to do less often:

Check windshield wiper blades

Be sure these operate properly and show no signs of wear and tear. If you haven’t replaced these recently, you may be due for some new ones.

Inspect the propane tanks

Check for any propane odor and check your hoses and seals to see if they show any signs of wear or cracking. Inspect your cylinders and hardware for rust or damage and have a trained service technician make any necessary repairs. Check to see whether your tank needs to be recertified.

Test all safety equipment to ensure it works

This list should include your fire extinguisher(s), smoke detector(s), carbon monoxide detector, and your horn. Change the batteries in your smoke alarms and carbon monoxide detectors.

Service your brakes

Check your brake fluid and brake pads, and adjust your brakes as necessary.

Sanitize your freshwater tank

You need to sanitize your freshwater tank to ensure you have safe, potable water. Use ¼ cup of bleach, diluted in water, for every 16 gallons in your freshwater tank. Add it to your tank using a funnel, fill the tank with water, and let it sit for 12 hours. Then, drain the tank and flush the system.

Tune-up heating and cooling systems

Inspect your air conditioner and water heater and have them professionally serviced, if needed.

Update your maintenance log

Keeping track of what you’ve done can keep you on top of maintenance tasks, and knowing when you’ve performed them will remind you when regular maintenance is due.

Check and rotate your tires

Rotate your RV tires so they wear evenly, and look for any problems. If you need replacements, used tires can be an option, as long as they’re in good condition. It’s a good option for saving money, as long as you stay safe. If you’re towing a trailer, then don’t forget to check your trailer tires, too.

Inspect your engine’s belts and hoses

Take a look under the hood and check for any cracking or deterioration in the belts and hoses. Make sure they’re at proper tension and not loose.

Hot weather RV maintenance

Summer travel and the heat associated with it pose their own challenges. Although your monthly maintenance tasks should take care of your needs, pay close attention to these items if you know you’ll be traveling in the heat of summer.

How to prepare your RV for hot weather

Especially if you skipped some monthly maintenance checks, be sure to do the following before traveling in the heat:

Check and top off fluid levels

Make sure you have enough coolant and refrigerant in your air conditioner.

Examine your air filter

Clean or replace it if necessary.

Test batteries and refill fluid levels

Test your batteries to make sure they have a good charge, and top off the water with distilled water as needed.

Clean and wax the RV’s exterior

The wax can help prevent damage from UV rays.

Check and repair broken seals

Repairing seals protects your RV from weather damage both inside and out.

How to protect your RV’s interior

Heat and direct sunlight can cause fading, cracking, and other aging to the interior of your RV. Follow these tips to minimize direct sunlight damaging your interior:

• Park in the shade.
• Use curtains.
• Use a fold-up sunscreen/visor to protect your dashboard.
• Use seat covers to protect seats.
• Apply conditioner to keep leather surfaces soft and protect them from cracking caused by the sun.

Essential RV amenities

If you budget only allows for the necessities, don’t leave home without ensuring you have the following essential components for RV travel:

Wheel chocks

Your parking brake may keep your RV stable, but it doesn’t keep it immobile. Wheel chocks keeps your RV secure so it doesn’t go rolling away.

Levelers

Your RV must be level for your equipment to work properly. Even if you have electric or hydraulic levelers, you need to bring some type of manual level system along for when you must park on uneven ground.

Drinking water hose

You need a dedicated hose to fill your freshwater tank at each destination. Because the spigot could be far away, get at least one 25-foot-long hose labeled “potable,” meaning suited for drinking water.

Water filter

Water quality varies from place to place, and a water filter keeps debris out of your pump and out of your drinking water.

Sewer hose

You don’t want this hose to be cheap. Get a nice, 10- to 20-foot sewer hose with adapters—if it comes with a see-through connector, even better.

Surge protector

Protect your electronics from sudden electrical surges and dips, common to life at the campground.

Shore power cord

If your RV isn’t equipped with a power cord, you can’t use a home extension cord for your RV power so you need a shore power cord instead. Check the amperage of your RV to select the appropriate cord.

Electrical adapters

Adapters can enable you to adjust to different service outputs or receptacles as needed.

Water pressure regulator

This mechanism is a valve that moderates water pressure from a source. Water pressure at different sites can vary, and this regulator ensures you don’t ruin your plumbing.

Tire pressure gauge

A digital pressure gauge is helpful in checking your tire pressure; don’t count on finding a gas station with an accurate gauge when you need one.

Duct tape

For quick fixes, it’s hard to beat for RVers.

Flashlight

If you break down on a dark road, you’ll need a powerful bright flashlight that can illuminate a large area, is durable, and takes batteries with long life. One with multiple settings can be helpful, too.

Emergency road kit

Creating a checklist of your own can help ensure you don’t forget anything, from water to blankets; ice scrapers to tire chains in winter; screwdrivers to lug wrenches; a first-aid kit; and other necessities.

Extra motor oil and transmission fluid

It’s good to have some of each on hand in case you break down far away from the nearest gas station.

Fire extinguisher

It’s just as important on the road as it is at home—perhaps more so, considering potential engine problems.

Closed bag for important documents

Include things like your registration, insurance, reservations, prescriptions, emergency contact numbers, list of allergies, and so on.

The post The Ultimate RV Maintenance Checklist for Every Season appeared first on Tire Reviews, Buying Guide & Interesting Facts - Utires.com.

5 Safe Driving Apps and Tools to Minimize Distractions

It’s easy to get distracted while driving, especially if your phone is near. Use these safe driving apps and tools to minimize distractions on the road.

Thanks to modern technology, we have countless ways to stay connected in the palms of our hands. While this helps us communicate with our friends and loved ones, it can be a distraction while driving.

In 2019 alone, 3,142 people died due to texting and driving and many other injuries and crashes occurred. To reduce distractions behind the wheel, try these safe driving apps and tools. Some even pay you to put down your phone while driving!

Safe Driving Apps

These apps, Drivemode, OnMyWay, SAFE 2 SAVE, TrueMotion Family Safe Driving, and I’m Driving, include features to promote safe driving.

1. Drivemode Dash

Drivemode silences calls, texts, and alerts from your phone once you hit 15 miles per hour, and can send out autoreplies in real-time. It’s free (although it contains ads), and parents with teenage drivers in the family can program it to notify them when the app is deactivated.

• Android: rated at 4.1 stars by 31,901 people — free
• iPhone: rated at 3.3 stars by 26 people — free

2. OnMyWay

OnMyWay auto-disables text and app alerts when you’re driving faster than 10 mph, but you can still answer calls if your phone is hooked up to your car’s Bluetooth. Apps such as Google Maps and Spotify will still work as long as they’re activated before you head out on the road or while you’re stopped. According to the company, the app and its users prevented more than 23,500 crashes and saved over 150 lives in its first 14 months of use “with a mathematical certainty.”

• Android: rated at 4.3 stars by more than 10,000 people — free
• iPhone: rated at 4.3 stars by 11,700 people — free

3. SAFE 2 SAVE

SAFE 2 SAVE uses an incentive program to encourage drivers not to text while driving. You earn two points for every minute of safe driving over 10 mph, then click on icons to redeem those points at your favorite businesses. You can even get competitive by setting up games with friends, family members, or co-workers to determine who’s the safest driver.

• Android: rated at 4.1 stars by 705 people — free
• iPhone: rated at 4.9 stars by 7000 people — free

4. TrueMotion Family Safe Driving

TrueMotion doesn’t deactivate your phone when you’re driving. Instead, it relies on giving you feedback about how you’re doing via a rating scale. It also can tell you the exact times when you might have been driving distracted.

• Android: rated at 3.4 stars by 160 people — free
• iPhone: rated at 3.6 stars by 153 people — free

5. I’m Driving

I’m Driving lets you know who on your contact list is driving, so you can avoid texting them. However, the user must let others know they’re driving by starting and stopping a button on the pap.

• Android: rated at 4.4 stars by 17 people — free
• iPhone: rated at 4.8 stars by 5 people — free

The post 5 Safe Driving Apps and Tools to Minimize Distractions appeared first on Tire Reviews, Buying Guide & Interesting Facts - Utires.com.